There is a real throbbing fear of black-magic – and visual evidence of its craft is everywhere. There is Kali, the goddess of death and destruction and disease. And on days when she holds sway, mothers keep babies indoors. They warn their children not to step over broken eggs, little mounds of cooked rice, coloured chalk and entrails of animals, strategically placed on sidewalks by evil adherents of the art. Brain and trotters are not eaten on such days; or liver, or heart — for it is not only the vegetarian Hindus who believe in the black art, but all those who are of India.